Every Friday, rain or shine, hundreds of people descend on Amman’s downtown plaza to create the Friday Abdali Market.  People come with trucks full of fresh produce, rack after rack of clothing, and truck loads of toys.  On Thursday afternoon, the streets come alive with sound of Abdali marketers putting together their displays and greeting their fellow marketers.  The infrastructure of Abdali’s Friday market leaves a bit lacking; semi-permanent metal poles are covered in tarps to protect goods from rain and sun, extension cords are strung to provide light, and tables are procured for displays.  In the event of a fire or stampede, the entire market would either go up in flames or fall down on top of its inhabitants; I try not to dwell on that remote possibility.  By dusk on Thursday, Abdali is ready for business.  What is even more impressive is that by nightfall on Friday, the entire market has packed up and dispersed.  The only proof of its existence is the garbage that is left behind; a layer of crushed coffee cups, cigarette butts, and produce husks remain.

Abdali market manages to be a combination thrift shop, farmer’s market, and craft fair.  Everything and anything imaginable is for sale.  You want a new faucet?  Come to Abdali!  Need a new winter coat?  Come to Abdali!  Want to buy an industrialized jar of spices?  You know where to go!  There are millions of items of clothing, ranging from t-shirts to full prom dresses.  There is even a booth full of seemingly used underwear…I have not sent much time checking that out.  The market fits in area roughly ¾ of a mile long and 3 blocks wide, with a mosque smack dab in the middle.  On any given Friday, hundreds of Jordanians elbow a decent assortment of expats and visitors as young men scream their wares on the top of their lungs.  There is a shoe stall next to racks of seemingly random clothing.  If you find something you like, buy it now.  It is unlikely you will ever find your way back to the same store again.  Prices are negotiable.  A pair of boots that start at 27 JD can be bargained down to 15 JD.  If the price remains too high, move on.  There will be another boot store in 10 yards.  In the middle of the mayhem are strategically placed “Magic Corn” stands, selling what can only be described as bizarre carnival food.  It is literally cups of sweet corn flavored with lime juice and cumin.  The most interesting aspect of Abdali is the origin of its products.  Some clothes are clearly used and probably came from someone’s home or a donation bin.  Other brand name clothes and fancy, new boots may have “fallen off the back of a truck”.  The majority of the stuff remains in the middle, new or lightly used clothes of unknown origin.  It really baffles me.  Either way, one must make sure to wash all Abdali clothes before they wear them.  And do not go to Abdali without a purchase in mind.  As an avid avoider of all things shopping (I realized I haven’t been to the grocery store in 2 weeks when I literally ate noodles with garlic powder because I was out of food), wandering aimlessly through Abdali is a bit intense for me.  It does present a good occasion to practice Arabic bartering skills.

Hannah and I set off to the magic world of Abdali this morning with the express purpose of shopping for a pair of boots.  Hannah wisely arrived in Amman without sufficiently warm/closed toed shoes for the winter and rain.  I had been to Abdali the previous weekend with Marwan and Tamer, where I acted as Marwan’s personal shopper.  I purposely have not brought more than 5 JD with me to Abdali because the racks of heeled black boots with buckles call my name, but add up quickly.  I did relent and purchase a pair of shoulder length silver earrings with assorted hoops last time.  I couldn’t resist.  The first purchase of our trip was actually the very first lamb kebob I have ever seen on the streets of Amman.  Now, kebabs are common all over Jerusalem and the West Bank, being sold from at least one street vendor on each corner.  In Amman, I have seen none.  Some middle end restaurants sell them, but even then most are geared towards serving over priced and subpar foreign food rather than something like kebabs.  I all but dragged Hannah to the stall, but she was equally enthusiastic about buying the kebab.  Next time I might get that AND the really good, fresh felafal sandwich.  I helped Hannah pick out boots and we headed back to the University area once again.  We did find plenty of options for Claire’s 2nd Annual (well 2nd annual when I am in Jordan) Ugly Sweater Christmas Party!

As a side note, Abdali is one of the most authentic, foreign feeling places in Amman.  When the entire Friday mosque sermon is playing over the loud speakers, hijabi women are haggling over the price of jeans, and a cloud of cigarette smoke lingers by street hawkers who have no qualms about smoking next to a stack of sweaters, it is easy to forget that there is a McDonald’s right around the corner.  Abdali is a must see for every visitor to Amman (and any broke post grad who needs clothing!)  One of the best things about Abdali is that it is open all Thursday night and into Friday morning.  I have fond memories of staying up all night with friends and walking down to Abdali as the sun rose.  We would stock up on veggies for the week, shop for clothes in a nearly empty market, and grab breakfast sandwiches before heading home and to bed.  And when I was working at Books@, I went a few times a 3 am with my male coworkers to beat even the early morning crowds.  The people at an outdoor flea market in Amman at 3 am are a fairly eclectic group to say the least.

Miss you guys!

Claire